Introduction

Then, in order to help you experiment productively with the AUTOGRAF products and supplies, there are descriptions of them along with instructions for use. Statistics on the substantivity of these materials are provided on a chart for those interested. Differences in hair and individual problems have prompted a chart of recommended conditioning procedures which is provided for your salon use

Differences in hair, styling techniques and motivation have prompted a chart of recommendations which you Will find under the Hairicatures page. This link is provided in case you don't have time to care why... and just want results... NOW!!! ... 

The Autograf system has been created with built-in reliability and economy to assist the professional cosmetologist in the satisfaction of client needs. Recommendations for use for best perfomance can be found on the Perscription Chart and which products are best for your type of hair can be found in the Usage Chart.

 You may e-mail Dawn at dawn@autograf.com or call (888) 932-7252 (US only)   (206) 938-8384

This Page's Links
Introducing... The Autograf Protein Line!
Why Collagen Substantive Proteins
Proof of protein penetration into hair
Split Ends
WSP Protein thickens hair
Protective Effects -- Increased Tensil Strenght
Moisturizing Effect

WHY COLLAGEN SUBSTANTIVE PROTEINS

First, the boring part ... or not!

Protein has become increasinly important in the health sciences as well as hair. Yet, how much has been said of it other than that, "it is good for us?" Here are a few interesting bits of information that are also critical in our study of hair.

Proteins are basic factors in all plant and animal biological processes. Protein is the primary constituent of all animal structural materials such as hair, hoofs, nails, skin, cartilage and muscle.

No two proteins are exactly alike in physiological, physical or chemical nuture. The number of different proteins involved in living matter runs well into the millions.

Proteins are extemely complex molecules htat cannot be identified by the usual chemical characteristics such as boiling points or melting points. They are classified by their end  products:

1. Simple Proteins yield only amino acids upon hydrolysis.

2. Conjugated Proteins yield amino acids plus other substances upon hydrolysis.

3. Derived Proteins are proteins resulting from partial hydrolysis of other proteins.

The number of amino acids in the protein's molecule chain determines its molecular weight. The molecular weights of commercially avialalbe proteins range form a high of 336,00 to a low of 1,000.

SOYBEAN contains several different proteins - varying in weight form 138,000 to 336,000

GELATIN ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 - dut to variations in manufacturing and gel-strength of teh gelatin.

ZEIN's (corn protein) molecular weight also varies with the manufacturing method, ranging from 30,000 to 50,000.

CASEIN contains several proteins, ranging from 20,00 to 85,000.

EGG PROTEINS range in molecular weight form 15,000 to 87,000.

INOLEX COLLAGEN PROTEINS are derived proteins having an approximate molecular weihgt ranging from 1,000 to 10,000

MOLECULAR SIZE IS ONE FO THE KEY FACTORS THAT DETERMINE THE FUNCTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS OF PROTEINS IN COSMETIC OR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS. RESEARCH HAS SHOWN THAT PROTEINS WIHTIN THE MOLECULAR WEIGHT RANGE OF 750 TO 15,000 ARE THE MOST SUBSTANTIVE.

Of course, what professionals and the consumer are interested in, are the end results! AUTOGRAF's select collagen proteins, (with an approximate molecular weight of 1,000) are the most substantive proteins available to the cosmetic chemist.

DOCUMENTING PROTEIN SUBSTANTIVITY

The first problem in documenting protein substantivity was to determine the molecular weight range that would be most functional in hair care cosmetic products. To accomplish this it was necessary to know if the protein was truly substantive to hair. This proof of sorption was needed because if the protein was not substantive, it would be impossible for it to impart any true beneficial effects.

Developing a method for determining true quantitative sorption of protein by hair becomes extremely difficult because hair is also protein; it is necessary to distinguish the collagen protein hair protein. Consequently, in seeking a practical and accurate tracer method Wilson's compared the amino acid content of collagen with hair and found that an amino acid, hydroxyproline, was present in collagen, but absent in hair. Advantage was taken of this unique characteristic of collagen, and hydroxyproline was used as a tracer in the subsequent research. In hair treated with Wilson's proteins, measurement of hydroxyproline content would quantitate the level of Wilson's protein present.

Anyone can deposit protein on the outer surface of hair strands, but it doesn't do much good unless that protein actually penetrates the cuticle and is retained in the cortex of the hair. WSP-X250, a collagen protein hydrolysate, does just that.

Because the current hydroxyproline measurement of protein sorption in human hair requires complete hydrolysis of the strands, it is normally impossible to measure the comparative amounts of protein in the cuticle and cortex of the hair shaft. Wilson's Protein Technology devised a technique to mechanically remove the cuticle and then analyze the cuticle, cortex, and the whole hair strands separately for collagen protein. Three tests were made: one with virgin hair, one with bleached hair, and one with bleached-waved hair.

Percent Mg. Collagen Protein

by Weight remaining in hair

Virgin Hair -- Of the protein sorbed 86.7% in the Cortex 2.0

13.3% in the Cuticle 0.7

Bleached Hair -- 82.9% in the Cortex 2.8

17.1% in the Cuticle 1.0

Bleached-Waved Hair -- 84.3% in the Cortex 10.8

15.7% in the Cuticle 3.2

THE RESULTS, AS YOU CAN SEE, PROVE THAT WSP-X250 DOES NOT MERELY DEPOSIT ITSELF ON THE OUTER SURFACE OF THE HAIR, BUT THAT IT PENETRATES THE CUTICLE AND IS SORBED INTO THE CORTEX OF THE HAIR. The degree of sorption is directly dependent on the amount of "damage" done to the hair. The cortex of the Bleached-Waved hair exhibited more than five times the collagen protein found in the cortex of Virgin Hair.

IT HAS BEEN CLEARLY SHOWN THAT THE DEGREE OF PROTEIN SUBSTANTIVITY TO HUMAN HAIR IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO HAIR DAMAGE. Perhaps this can be partially explained by the fact that damaged hair is more porous, allowing the protein to penetrate the cuticle of the hair and thereby affix itself either physically or through chemical bonding within the hair itself. Practically speaking, this phenomenon is particularly relevant to hair care products. The greater the need for protein replenishment through damage, the greater the amount of substantive protein sorbed. In effect, THE PROTEIN WORKS AUTOMATICALLY AND THE CONSUMERS WILL THEREFORE RECEIVE THE OPTIMUM BENEFITS OF THE PROTEIN AS NEEDED BY THE CONDITION OF THEIR HAIR.

SUBJECTIVE EFFECTS

Now that the protein has been sorbed by human hair, WHAT CONSUMER BENEFITS DOES IT IMPART? Among the numerous effects either quantitatively determined or subjectively observed by the industry are: INCREASED BODY, INCREASED MANAGEABILITY, THICKENED HAIR, PROTECTIVE EFFECTS, INCREASED TENSILE STRENGTH, REDUCTION OF SPLIT ENDS, ENHANCED COMB ABILITY, AND INCREASED SHEEN. Many of these benefits or claims would be indeed difficult to quantify in the laboratory, although they can be readily observed on half-head tests in the beauty salon. Those which could be either photographed or determined analytically were increased body, protective effects, reduction of split ends, thickening effect and increased tensile strength.

SPLIT ENDS

The problem of split ends in human hair is one that plagues many people. A fundamental approach to the problem was taken, and sufficient data was accumulated to show the effect of WSP Protein on helping to reduce split ends.

A hair with a split end was immersed in water. The split end closed very quickly and the hair began to swell slightly. The wet split end was then very carefully dried to the point of equilibrium with the atmosphere whereupon it opened to its original untreated position.

The same hair was immersed in a 5% solution of WSP-X250 Protein and the reaction was identical to that in water only; the split end immediately closed and the strand began to swell. Rather than drying the protein solution on the strand, which would literally glue the split together, the protein solution was carefully but thoroughly rinsed off the split end which was then dried as in the case of the water treatment. The split end reduced in diameter; however, the split did not reopen after the first rinsing. NOT UNTIL AFTER THE FIFTH RINSING DID THE SPLIT REOPEN.

Through the observation and testing of hundreds of split ends it was found that about 70% of the split ends responded in this phenomenal manner.
The bulk of the split ends that did not close either were misaligned or had extremely poor surface contact between the two halves. Protein requires good surface contact in order to bond or close the split.

WSP PROTEINS THICKEN HAIR

Wilson's Protein Technology Laboratories recently documented the role of WSP-X250 as a hair thickening agent (body) when used repeatedly on damaged hair.

First, a strand was treated for two hours with a commercial wave lotion, neutralized, rinsed with water and dried: Diameter 2.8 units. This strand was then immersed in water and blotted dry 20 times and finally oven dried:
Diameter 2.55 units. THE WATER TREATED STRAND DECREASED 9% IN DIAMETER. A second strand was chemically treated identically to the first strand and measured 2.9 units. This strand was then immersed 20 times in a 5% solution of Wilson's Protein, WSP-X250. After each immersion, the strand was thoroughly rinsed and blotted dry and finally oven dried: Diameter 3.4 units. THIS STRAND INCREASED 17% IN DIAMETER OVER ITS CONTROL AND 26% OVER THE WATER TREATED STRAND.

PROTECTIVE EFFECTS -- INCREASED TENSILE STRENGTH

Cosmetologists and their patrons know that permanent waving can and does damage hair. Can this damage be minimized without impairing waving action? It can with the addition of WSP-X250 Protein to the waving lotion.

Virgin dark brown hair was washed in a 1% non-ionic detergent solution, rinsed and dried. A swatch was retained without further treatment (Virgin Hair). the control swatch was treated with a commercially-available thioglycolate waving lotion by immersing it for 30 minutes. The hair was then rinsed, blotted and neutralized for 10 minutes. The experimental swatches were treated in the same way, but WSP-X250 was added to the lotion and neutralized in concentrations of 1% and 9%.

Tensile properties were measured using an Instron Tensile Tester, by measuring the stress necessary to elongate the strands 15%. The variable of diameter differences from strand to strand was eliminated by accurately measuring the cross-sectional areas and calculating the results as grams of stress.

Category Elongate 15% Protective Effect

Plain Waving Lotion 11.7 0

Lotion with 1% X250 12.6 34.6

Lotion with 9% X250 13.2 57.7

The results, as you can see by the chart, show that the tensile strength of hair waved with WSP-X250 is greater than that of hair waved without it. In fact, the hair waved with 9% WSP-X250 showed a 57.7% protective effect and hair treated with only 1% still exhibited 34.6%. THERE IS THEN NO DOUBT THAT SUBSTANTIVE PROTEIN CAN AND WILL INCREASE THE TENSILE STRENGTH OF HAIR.

MOISTURIZING EFFECT

THE HUMECTANT PROPERTIES OF SUBSTANTIVE PROTEINS CAUSE WATER TO BE BOUND BY THE FIBRE AT A GREATLY INCREASED LEVEL. the hair however, only feels pleasant to the touch, never moist; it loses brittleness and becomes more plastic or flexible. At the same time, an already over-abundant supply of moisture (over-elasticity) can be controlled by the use of protein since the protein will bond in more firmly than water and will tend to push out unneeded water.

The prime purpose of a shampoo is to clean the scalp and hair without completely stripping all natural oils. As these shampoos are all conditioning shampoos, the surfactant and other products used must be substantive to hair so that penetration of the protein will not be affected. It should also impart some lubricity and a pleasantness to the touch, and provide improved comb-out properties. Materials used should be bio-degradable and non-irritating. THESE SHAMPOOS MEET ALL OF THESE STANDARDS.

PROTEIN SORPTION IS LOWEST AT LOW pH FOR SOME COSMETIC FORMULATIONS. This is true for shampoo. Our Protein Reconditioning Shampoo was tested for protein sorption at pH 4.7 and PH 5.8. The results of this test are:

Protein absorbed by hair ...

5 minute treatment -- PH 4.7 .32% of weight of hair tested

5 minute treatment -- PH 5.8 .45% of weight of hair tested

This is an increase of 44%. The protein content of the AUTOGRAF Shampoos accounts for 22% of the material cost. In order that the consumer may reap the greatest benefit from these conditioning shampoo, they are formulated with PH 5.8.

There are a few customers in every salon who wash and blow dry their hair daily and cannot take the few minutes extra to condition their hair each time. Since water and heat can dry hair, this shampoo has been developed to aid them. While using either the regular shampooing method or in leaving it on the hair for a few extra minutes this shampoo will deposit more protein into the hair and do a somewhat better detangling job. The superior cleansing materials used are what produce the slickness and silkiness of the hair so no dirt-attracting oils or waxes are necessary. Because of this, people who wash less frequently but who have very damaged or dry hair can appreciate this material, too.

While it is nice to have a basic, easy to use conditioner for shop use that is also easy to retail, there are many problem heads for which the normal treatments are just not sufficient or useful. The people from AUTOGRAF have spent a great deal of time in the salon before, during and after the development of the Protein Plus Line and have come up with four conditioners. These products may be used independently or in combinations to suit not only the variations among people, but even upon a particular head!

This is a cream, light peach in color, with a very pleasant scent. It is primarily supplied for the retail customer. IT IS INTENDED FOR USE AS A HAIR MAINTENANCE MATERIAL. It is recommended that 4-SILK replace their cream rinses,instant and leave in conditioners since they will still have tangle control without the dirt-attracting coating of an oil or wax.

IN THE SALON ... 4-SILK smoothes and polishes freshly tinted hair, as well as hair treated with PROTEIN PLUS when rinsed quickly through the shampooed locks! At home it is most beneficial when applied to towel-dried hair and left for five minutes though it will remove tangles and leave shine when it is merely worked through the hair and rinsed out.

This material is an excellent performer; it will fine hair a beautiful glow and leave it silky, pliable and manageable. Sold for use in the salon as well as for retail customers, IT IS ESPECIALLY EFFECTIVE ON FINE, LIMP OR DULL HAIR THAT HAS BEEN DEPLETED AND DAMAGED BY BLEACHING, BLOW DRYING OR SUN. It will, of course, perform all of the functions inherent substantive proteins which are supported by their combination with electrolytes. Use in conjunction with PROTEIN PLUS is recommended in a monthly program since this is a maintenance conditioner with little detangling and lots of body as its primary contribution. Application to towel dried, freshly shampooed hair for five minutes is recommended for optimum results.

This material may occasionally become cloudy from exposure to cold since it is saturated with magnesium sulfate. To eliminate clouding hold bottles of 4-BODY under hot water for a short while.

This formula combines the chemicals which have proven EFFECTIVE IN RECONDITIONING EXTREMELY FINE, DAMAGED AND SEVERELY DAMAGED HAIR. It includes the essential fatty acids, electrolytes and an extremely high percentage of substantive protein. This liquid can be used in all phases of hair conditioning (except for detangling), and will perform all of the functions inherent in substantive protein. PROTEIN PLUS IS EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE WHEN USED IN THE PERMANENT WAVE PROCESS. IT WILL STRENGTHEN THE CURL AND LEAVE THE HAIR LOOKING AND FEELING LIKE NATURALLY CURLY HAIR.

For salon conditioning, place cotton around the face and apply PROTEIN PLUS from a tint bottle to dry hair. Apply heat over a plastic bag for 15 to 30 minutes. Since this material MUST BE SHAMPOOED OUT, it may be applied to dirty hair unless excessive hair spray is present.

This material is applied with a spritzer bottle. It is acid in nature, contains substantive protein, will improve manageability and luster, sheen and style last ability, WITHOUT BECOMING GUMMY OR STICKY. Hair should be towel dried or semi-blow dried before application for maximum control and shine in blowing or setting. Supplies come ready-to-use in 8 ounce bottles for personal use and quarts or gallons for shop use.

An added benefit of this product is its acidifying effect on fresh perms, relaxers or colors. Color and curl strength result as well as slick comb ability when wet and sheen when dry. LINE DESIGN CONTROLLER also deodorizes VERY effectively!

Clouding of the material may occur after exposure to cold. This may be remedied by holding closed bottle under hot water for a short period of time.

All products manufactured and distributed by AUTOGRAF include Collagen Substantive Protein. All products have been tested by an independent laboratory as to their degree of substantivity. The results of these tests are printed here for your information and comparisons.

To make available some basis for evaluation of the substantivity of these products, the following tests are presented as a base. The tests were carried out on human hair that had been bleached for 2 hours. The hair bundles were treated with various water solutions of WSP S-250 solids, thoroughly rinsed and analyzed by use of the hydroxyproline tracer method.

THE AMOUNT OF PROTEIN SORBED BY HAIR IS DEPENDENT UPON SEVERAL FACTORS: THE CONDITION OF THE HAIR, THE AMOUNT OF PROTEIN IN THE FORMULA, THE OTHER PRODUCTS IN THE FORMULA, THE pH. OF THE PRODUCT, THE AMOUNT OF TIME THE PRODUCT IS ON THE HAIR AND WHETHER OR NOT HEAT IS USED IN THE PROCESS. Because of these variables, the above base can only be used as a guide.

Testing in this area was performed by a panel of five, from the same laboratory, each evaluating separately. The five scores were then averaged. The average scores appear for each product. Scoring is from 0 to 5: Five being perfect.

"Attached please find the report covering our evaluation of your recently submitted protein shampoo and protein reconditioners. We find that these products are generally excellent performers, ranking with the better comparable nationally advertised products."

SUBSTANTIVITY TESTS

Protein sorbed by hair.

Regular shampoo method: .32% of the weight of hair treated.

Left on for 5 minutes (Actual test) .52% of the weight of hair treated.

COMBING

Detangling 2.0

Wet Combing 2.5

Dry Combing 3.4

Static Control 2.5

SUBSTANTIVITY TESTS

Protein sorbed by hair.

5 minutes without heat: .55% of the weight of hair treated

15 minutes with heat 1.27% of the weight of hair treated.

COMBING

Detangling 4.5

Wet Combing 4.8

Dry Combing 4.4

Static Control 4.1

SUBSTANTIVITY TESTS

Protein sorbed by hair.

5 minutes without heat: .56% of the weight of hair treated

COMBING

Detangling 3.5

Wet Combing 3.5

Dry Combing 4.1

Static Control 3.8

SUBSTANTIVITY TESTS

Protein sorbed by hair.

15 minutes with heat: 1.25% of the weight of hair treated

COMBING

Detangling 1.5

Wet Combing 3.2

Dry Combing 4.5

Static Control 3.8